Are you considering a butch haircut? Here’s everything you need to know about this simple and often flattering chop as it applies to men.
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Society associates very few men’s hairstyles with traditional masculinity more than the butch cut. It’s a favorite of army folks and professional athletes (among others), and it’s easy to maintain.
What’s more manly than effortlessly looking good rather than trying too hard?
Kidding. Even the pseudo-scientific alpha male cares about how he looks within reason.
But this short, close-to-scalp hairstyle isn’t just for guys trying to cash in on that cultural association.
It looks great on a lot of different face types. It’s easy to maintain and take care of. Even if you prefer a longer cut, going for a butch can help reset your hair without having to shave it all off.
If you think you may want to go for this look, read on. Even if you aren’t, read on. You may come out of this thinking it’s actually right for you. I’m here to tell you everything you didn’t think you needed to know about this cut.
But first, so we’re all on the same page, what is a butch-style haircut for guys?
What Is a Butch Haircut Exactly?
Well, it’s a cut that features a consistently short cut-up top. This means there isn’t a fringe at all. Every single hair on the top of your head, and often the top back of your head as well, is the same length.
Traditional versions for guys won’t be any longer than half an inch. They also won’t be any shorter than one-fourth of an inch. That’s anywhere between 13 millimeters and five or six millimeters for you metric folks.
The sides and lower back often taper, similar to a crew cut. However, as similar as they are, they’re technically two different cuts.
Hilariously, the actual “official” name of this style is the brush cut (it’s what professional hairstylists call it). However, it became a popular go-to for women looking to shed their traditional femininity. Hence, the nickname “butch”, for obvious reasons.
These days, most of us do, in fact, call it the men’s butch cut.
Now, let’s talk about the differences between the butch and similar looks, again, as it applies to men.
Butch Cut vs. Crew Cut
Unlike a butch cut, a crew cut isn’t even all over, not necessarily at least. For example, different variations of crew cuts may have a slight fringe.
Or, it could be long enough to part on the side, creating the Ivy League version of a crew. Also, the crew is squarer at the top, while the brush is rounder.
However, for the most part, a short crew cut communicates a similar aesthetic as a traditional brush does. In fact, you may call a short crew the missing link between the two styles.
Butch Cut vs. Buzz Cut
One might consider the butch under the buzz-cut umbrella. After all, both the butch and the crew both require a buzzer to achieve.
So, while all butch cuts are buzz cuts, not all buzz cuts are butch cuts.
However, in the greater imagination, brush cuts are longer and more uniform. People often associate buzzcuts with short haircuts that are just a millimeter away from baldness.
Butch Haircuts: Background and History
Brush cuts and buzz cuts have been associated with the military since the beginning of time. These exceptionally short styles date back to Ancient Rome. The centurion army preferred this easy, out-of-the-way, and uniform chop.
The manual hair clipper was invented in the 1800s, allowing different buzz styles to proliferate among the general public.
Most armies adopted this cut because it was easy for soldiers to conform aesthetically and for hygiene reasons. Any soldier in Britain, France, Russia, and, of course, the US would be sporting some form of a brush cut.
This long-time association is the main reason why the brush symbolizes masculinity, strength, and a sort of stoicism. However, several other subcultures adopted this style, too.
In the ‘60s, starting in England, those in the punk scene went for close cuts to separate themselves from hippies and rockers. And even before that, as mentioned, in the ‘40s, women who embraced masculinity went for a traditional brush cut.
Butch Haircuts: 5 Different Variations
Here are some cool ways to cut and sculpt a butch-style haircut for men. You’ll find that, despite there not being a lot of hair to play with, they come in a wide variety.
The Traditional Bush Cut
The traditional butch is generally anywhere from a quarter of an inch to half an inch on the top. The fade or hard stop on the sides follows the head’s contour. For most guys this means the uniform length up to will at least move into the upper sides and back.
A lot of guys look good with this look. Actors and athletes like Jake Gyllenhaal and Travis Kelce occasionally ditch their fuller side sweeps for this cut.
Butch Buzz Cut
A butch buzz cut is simply a short butch. The shortest version of this, meaning the barber didn’t use a guard, is the induction cut.
Again, the butch is just one form of a buzz cut. But, a butch buzz is one in which there’s complete uniformity, length-wise.
Butch Cut Fade
A butch cut fade is just a brush cut that fades. For a classic brush, the fade would start on the sides of your head and lower back.
It’s a handsomely trend-resistant cut.
Long Butch Cut
A long butch cut is about half an inch up top or more. For a lot of men, this is enough for your natural texture to come through.
However, these days, men combine different kinds of buzz cuts and go even longer, sometimes as far as a full inch. As long as it’s uniform up top, you can arguably still call it a brush cut or butch cut.
High and Tight
A high and tight butch cut involves a hard line or quick fade between the top and sides. This gives you a bit of a flat top look, but one that isn’t too dramatic since all of the hair is quite short anyway.
A longer version of this was popular in the ‘80s rap scene. It’s a great option for men with curly or coarse, thick, and textured hair.
FAQs
Do you still have some questions about the iconic butch cut? Here are some common ones, as well as their answers!
What Was a Butch Haircut in the 60s?
The term butch once referred to most buzzed cuts. However, in the ‘60s, because of the punk scene, the phrase extended to short, almost bald chops. The flat top, by contrast, featured a level, slightly longer top.
Is a Butch Cut a Buzz Cut?
Technically, yes. However, a butch cut is often longer and more even than most buzz cuts. A barber will usually use a level four guard on the clipper.
What Number Is a Butch Cut?
These days, there’s a variety of “butch cut” styles. However, traditionally, a barber will usually use a number three or four for a butch cut or a brush cut.
What Face Shape Looks Good With a Butch Cut?
A brush cut can complement both round and square faces. For round faces, increase the fade, and for square faces, decrease it a bit.
Conclusion: A Cut for All Types
I’ve always preferred a bit of length on the top of my head. I’m a side-sweep kind of guy.
However, in an attempt to save my hair from all the dying I put it through (I’ve been graying since I was 21), I went for a butch cut after New Year’s Eve 2024. I was surprised at how much it actually worked on my face.
I’m not saying to buzz your hair off if you prefer long hair. However, you’d be surprised at how well variations of the brush may work with your style.
Which is your favorite variation of the butch cut? If you’ve never worn a brush before, would you consider it now? Let me know in the comments! And don’t forget to subscribe to our newsletter to get style content right in your inbox!